Hotel Oloffson

The iconic Hotel Oloffson, a gothic “Gingerbread” mansion surrounded by a lush tropical garden, has been described as the most iconic hotel of not just Haiti but the whole Caribbean. The rickety 19th-century mansion is amazingly intact given its location in the centre of a city that has seen so much destruction.

While I wait for the black iron gates to open, passersby weave around my car. I honk again, and the gates creak open just enough to let me through. A doorman in a black cap and a faded T-shirt nods at me, then promptly creaks the gate shut again.

A winding cobblestone path flanked by green foliage disappears into deep gardens. There’s no hotel in sight. Instead, wrought iron sculptures with diabolic faces peer out from between the leaves. More and more strange sculptures appear, some created from car parts in a style I recognize as belonging to the Atis Resistance movement.

As the driveway winds further uphill, the white lattice of the mansion roof appears over the palm trees and mango leaves. On the left side of the driveway, a glittering white-and-mirror mosaic wall emerges into view. In the center, the mural shows a red and blue boat. Trained eyes know that more than a simple sailboat, this is actually a dedication to the vodou spirit of the sea, Agwe. Near the anchor that dips into the white waves, sacred inscriptions hint at the magic and folklore that infuses Hotel Oloffson.

1. Wynne Farm

Wynne Farm is a gorgeous ecological reserve located in the mountain town of Kenscoff. Wynne Farm is dedicated to environmental protection through education. It was founded in 1956 by civil engineer Victor Ainsley Wynne with the goal of conserving Haiti’s rich biodiversity and building a more sustainable Haiti.

Bird-watching is one of the farm’s experiences on offer, alongside an extensive list of activities such as yoga, camping or bee keeping. At an altitude of 6000 ft, Wynne Farm Ecological Reserve extends over 30 acres of land and is perfect for birdwatching, specifically for Haitian birds that prefer dense forests.

2. Parc National la Visite

Further out of Kenscoff you’ll find Parc National La Visite, a perfect place to experience Haiti’s green life while hiking and trailing near some of Haiti’s most protected species. Starting from Furcy you can hike through the park and up to Seguin through a steep but rewarding path.

Once there, you have the option to go back to Furcy or walk down to Jacmel which makes for a beautiful day of hiking ending in one of Haiti’s most beautiful cities. This park has been described as a refuge, often the ultimate refuge for the country’s mountain birds. Species such as the La Selle Thrush or the Red-legged Thrush can be seen on this hike. There are over 74 species of birds living in the park, making it a top destination for bird watching.

3. Macaya National Park

Established in 1983 The Macaya National Park is one of Haiti’s protected natural spaces. Described as a global biodiversity hotspot, Macaya is home to many endangered and endemic species of plants, birds and other Haitian wildlife. It is in the Massif de la Hotte in the South Department, bordering the department of Grand’Anse. This national reserve is home to 220 species of birds including the Antillean Mango and the Hispaniolan Trogon.

The Macaya National Park is also home to some of the most beautiful scenery in Haiti and to some breathtaking waterfalls (and not far from Haiti’s largest waterfall, Saut-Mathurine).